~ Our Desert Jewels: RED ROCK CANYON STATE PARK ~

This article "Red Rock Canyon State Park" was published on the Destination Lancaster website on 11/3/2020.

Our Desert Jewels

RED ROCK CANYON STATE PARK

Text and Photography: Robert Griego

www.mymotorcyletales.com

Red Cliffs Natural Preserve.

The evening sun dips behind the towering sandstone cliffs at Ricardo Campground as I arrive at Red Rock Canyon State Park. I've never been here before, though I grew up in the desert community of Barstow, not far from here.  Immediately, the desert solitude renews my soul. The sweeping desert view kindles fond desert memories.

Sweeping views welcome me to Red Rock Canyon State Park.

Once, I served as acting superintendent at Joshua Tree National Park for the National Park Service, so protecting our desert jewels is important to me.  The March 2017 issue of RoadRUNNER featured, “In Pursuit of Wildness: Joshua Tree National Park” which was my tribute to the late, Johnny Cash.  When Sandy Smith, Executive Director at Destination Lancaster took interest in my desert perspectives, I was honored.  I love the desert, and I think Johnny Cash did too. 

Ricardo Campground is perfect.

Today, I'm astride my Indian Springfield searching for that perfect campsite, and honestly, all the sites look inviting.  There is potable water and restrooms nearby.  The sweeping views to the east with scattered Joshua Trees captures my imagination.  A roadrunner darts through Rabbit Brush as I unload my gear at campsite 20, nestled below the sandstone cliffs.  The moon will be out tonight and the evening sun is a perfect time to go visit Red Cliffs Natural Preserve, but where?  There is another camper about a quarter-mile away who, as I pull off my helmet astride my motorcycle, is intently reading her book.  

“Ma’am, where is the famous Red Cliffs Natural Preserve?”  She lowers her reading glasses, lays down her book, and points her arm to the east: “It’s on the other side of Highway 14, a short distance from here.”  Picking up her book again, she adds, “The evening sun will make for great pictures, you should hurry.”

Desert solitude renews my soul.

ON TO THE RED ROCKS

The Red Cliffs Natural Preserve is impressive and trying to capture the towering presence is a challenge as the sun dips below the surrounding mountains.  I park my motorcycle and gaze towards the red rocks cliffs, walking deliberately with camera in hand towards the massive 300-foot crimson cliffs.  As I get closer, the rocks begin to take on different forms and shapes as the evening light changes.

I encourage you to leave the comfort of your car and walk.  Walking into the desert is special, it always is rewarding.  The quiet consumes me.  I sit on the ground, gazing up at lofty cliffs.  The screech of a Red Tail hawk breaks the silence as I put down my camera and head back to my motorcycle, now a half-mile away. 

The towering crimson cliffs embraced me.  If they could talk, they might whisper: “Robert, what took you so long to see this desert jewel”?

Imagination is powerful.

"Robert, what took you so long to see this desert jewel?"

The end to a perfect day among the crimson cliffs.

MOON, STARS, CAMPFIRE

My campsite, beneath the towering cliffs.

Ricardo Campground with my warm cozy fire is perfect.  The full moon provides ample light and that’s when I hear them.  

One owl hoots.  A second owl responds from a short distance away along the towering cliffs.  The hoots alternate in perfect rhythm.  The dueling owls seem to enjoy talking to each other.  I wonder what they might be saying. 

Then, a lone coyote shatters their personal rhythm as it uncontrollably shouts at the moon.  Both sounds are comforting as I gaze up towards the billions of stars that hang within easy reach.  Mars is directly before me towards the east; perhaps, that had something to do with the dueling owls and the lone coyote – nature’s music.  

Dancing in delight.

My comfort blanket is always the stars; their light always shines for me.  As they tuck me into my bed, sleep easily takes over – a perfect day for my first visit to Red Rocks Canyon State Park.  

Leisure, easy walking with children.

Tomorrow, I plan to hike along some of the nature trails at this desert jewel before heading south to Lancaster to see some of the new murals along with The BLVD Cultural District.

POW! WOW!

Destination Lancaster describes The BLVD Cultural District as “A thriving and dynamic cultural center located in the California’s High Desert.”  I knew that Lancaster recently hosted the 2020 POW! WOW! and I’ve always loved murals that bring communities across America alive. 

Today, I strolled leisurely along The BLVD to capture some of the spectacular artwork.  Yesterday, I walked beneath the Red Cliffs – each took my breath away.  I can’t wait to return for a longer visit to these jewels in the desert.

Stunning, massive art.

The architecture is stunning along The BLVD.

Simple, captivating.

Intricate, beautiful.

Larger than life.

Colorful, eye-popping.

The Oxfords Suites, centrally located in Lancaster, provides relaxing accommodations.

Heading home over Walker Pass towards Lake Isabella.

OVERVIEW: PLANNING YOUR VISIT

Red Rock Canyon State Park is located in beautiful Southern California, 120 north of Los Angeles, and about 50 miles from Lancaster, CA.  The park, located where the southernmost tip of the Sierra Nevada converge with the El Paso Range, was established to preserve 27,000 acres including the scenic desert cliffs, buttes, fossils, and spectacular rock formations.  Historically, the Kawaiisu Indians once inhabited the area and left petroglyphs in the El Paso mountains.  In about 1950, the 20-mule team freight wagons stopped by the colorful crimson rock formations for recognized land bearings and water.

THINGS TO DO

The best time to visit is in the spring and fall.  The sun can be intense so always carry water in the desert. 

Activities: Visitor Center, picnicking, hiking, camping, equestrian use, bird watching, biking, off-highway vehicle, star gazing, and wildflowers viewing in the wetter spring months. Guided nature hikes and campfire programs during the spring and fall.  Desert View Nature Trail and Hagen Canyon loop trail are good for children.

Ricardo Campground has 50 primitive campsites with fire rings, potable water, pit toilets, and tables. 

HOURS

Red Rock Canyon State Park is open from sunrise to sunset for day use.  Ricardo Campground is open 24 hours.  The Visitor Center is open in Spring and Fall.

FEES

Day-use parking is $6, camping is $25 ($2 senior citizen discount), an additional motor vehicle is $6 and motorcycle and ATV is $6 per day.  

For more information, see www.parks.ca.gov.

~ Into the Wild West's FOUR CORNERS ~

The article, Into the Wild West's FOUR CORNERS by Robert Griego, was originally published in the "2020 Special Collector's Issue by RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel" magazine.

End of preview text by RoadRUNNER:

"Our 2020 Special Collector's Issue showcases a regionally balanced mix of both previously-featured and new motorcycle tours with trip planning information and spectacular photography, as well as new Destinations features. The issue is printed on the high quality paper that you've come to expect from RoadRUNNER, and finished with a beautiful matte coating for the cover — a perfect gift for friends and loved ones, and to add to your personal RoadRUNNER collection."

~ Muir Woods National Monument ~

The article, Muir Woods National Monument by Robert Griego, was originally published in the 2020 Special Collector's Issue by RoadRUNNER Touring & Travel magazine.

~ In Pursuit of Wildness: Canyon de Chelly National Monument ~

After retiring from the National Park Service following a 36-year career—one that took me to many of our nation’s crown jewels, including Yellowstone, Rocky Mountain, Mount Rainier, Joshua Tree, Pinnacles, Bighorn Canyon, and Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks—I set out in search of a new kind of adventure: one found on two wheels.

Traveling light, camping along the way, and taking the backroads whenever possible, I chased wildness across Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, Montana, Idaho, Oregon, Washington, and California.

This is one of those journeys: In Pursuit of Wildness: Canyon de Chelly National Monument.

"The heart of the Navajo Nation"

"The rain is hard and relentless. The gas station ahead, a few miles from Window Rock, AZ, offers shelter. In seconds, the parking area is flooded, but my motorcycle is safe and dry.

“Do not go out further just yet,” the old Navajo man says. “The roads will be full of mud, and it will be very dangerous.” I nod in agreement, wet from the quick downpour..."

One of my first solo trips brought me to Canyon de Chelly National Monument.

White House is an easy 2 1/2 mile walk from the parking lot.

~ In Pursuit of Wildness: Manzanar National Historic Site ~

After retiring from the National Park Service following a 36-year career—one that took me to many of our nation’s crown jewels, including Yellowstone, Rocky Mountain, Mount Rainier, Joshua Tree, Pinnacles, Bighorn Canyon, and Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks—I set out in search of a new kind of adventure: one found on two wheels.

Traveling light, camping along the way, and taking the backroads whenever possible, I chased wildness across Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, Montana, Idaho, Oregon, Washington, and California.

This is one of those journeys: In Pursuit of Wildness: Manzanar National Historic Site.

“Our differences in beliefs do not truly separate us or elevate us over others. Rather, they highlight the rich tapestry that is humanity.”
— George Takei

"Once upon a time, Manzanar National Historic Site was called Manzanar War Relocation Center. It was one of 10 camps where Japanese American citizens were incarcerated during World War II. I had never been there, and I knew little about this site, though I knew that it is managed by the National Park Service, for which I once worked at Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, just west from there over the Sierra..."

Guard towers oversaw everything.

~ Riding West ~

"All good things are wild and free".  -  Henry David Thoreau

A few days ago, Christa Neuhauser Publisher & Editor-in-Chief of RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel asked me to write an article for their upcoming Special Collector's Edition.  She asked if I could select a small, lesser-known National Park Service area on the West Coast.  I was honored and came up with some possibilities. She quickly let me know that she wanted other options. 

She agreed with the area that I selected and asked if I could meet a short deadline.  While I can't yet reveal the area, it is a small NPS area located on the West Coast. The Special Collector's Edition will be published soon and should be loaded with awesome pictures and stories.  Keep an eye out for it at newsstands. 

It was a fun assignment allowing me to turn wheels and feel the wind in my face along with some quality camping at Basalt Campground at San Luis Reservoir.

It has been a while since I've ridden my Indian Springfield for a story and this is just what the doctor ordered.  I camped once going to this park and once coming home.  A quick, yet rewarding trip.

Going home, I rode Highway 1 past Half Moon Bay, Santa Cruz, and Moss Landing.  The fog was thick and wet.  The views were limited, though I could hear the crashing waves.  The sun did peek out for a bit as I stopped to stretch my legs.

Here are some pictures of that quick trip.  Enjoy.

My most important item for this trip

Yup, my bike, and flag are ready to go.

Sleeping bag - check.  Water - check.  Gloves - check.  Charger - check.  Face mask - check.

Basalt Campground, San Luis Reservoir.  80 sites total and 78 available.  My million dollar view.

Tonight, I grabbed the upper suite.

Nature takes great selfies

I love a campfire after a long day.

On my way back from the West Coast, my site was still available. The ground floor was perfect.

Cowboy boots make ideal windbreaks when cooking breakfast.

Leaving the campground, I stopped for three Tule bull elk that crossed in front of me.

These bulls ran for 1/4 mile before they felt safe from my iron horse.

The sun finally came out along Highway 1 south of Santa Cruz, CA.

It seems like corn is the crop this year in the San Joaquin Valley.  Perfect rows.

~ Reflections ~

"Live close to nature - climb the mountain, treasure the woods, the flowers, the rock-giving strength to body and soul." - John Muir

Sawtooth Peak stands majestically on the horizon.

It was our first pack-back trip in the early 1970s into the Sierra wilderness of Sequoia National Park.

Once we began our ascent of Sawtooth Pass in Mineral King, I'm not sure that we would survive.  It was a sketchy, cross-country trail at best.  I had never been here before and I relied on a topo map with scribbled notes from an earlier ascent by friends.

She reluctantly follows as we leave the established trail at Monarch Lakes to ascend the cross-country route over the 12,000' peak.  The steep granite slabs quickly begin to drain our energy.  The route is slow and difficult.  Each step is deliberate.  Our packs are heavy, our steps unsteady.  Near the summit, we pause to rest and assess the route before us. The views far below stretch for miles and we spot two mountain lakes; I think the map showed them to be Little Five and Big Five Lakes.

Honestly, I wasn't sure if we could make the first lake before dark.

We didn't have the latest camping gear.  Our backpacks were aluminum with heavy cotton sleeping bags.  We didn't have a full tent.  Our open tube tent was our shelter and the dark clouds concerned me.  The light rain quickly turned into a typical Sierra storm.  Sleep is poor as our tube tent provided a modest relief from the storm.

In the morning, the sky is clear and we quickly dry out our gear.  We fish at the first daylight and catch a few trout.  Denise and I are in awe of the wilderness before us.  The pristine lake warms our souls.  Wilderness and the sound of solitude were deafening.

We continued with our adventurist cross-country trip back to Mineral King via Hands and Knees Pass. The name perfectly describes our grueling descent back into the Mineral King Valley.  The weather had turned bad and our visibility was a mere 10 feet.  I remember setting up our tube tent and heating some hot chocolate, waiting for the weather to improve.  It never did.  We descended hoping to hit Mineral King Valley.

We did make it out!  Reflections.

Those are my thoughts, some fifty years later, as I gaze fondly toward Sawtooth Pass.

Today, we are spending the night at a friend’s rustic cabin in Silver City.  We did hike the 3 1/2 mile Cold Springs Nature Trail absorbing the tranquility of Mineral King Valley from the shimmering aspens to the peaceful mountain stream and an occasional mule deer.

Small steps, big moments, Sawtooth Peak in the background.

We stop for lunch next to the cool East Fork.

Our steps are slow and deliberate. She has made remarkable progress since her stroke on April 29, 2020.  We share a few pictures and memories over Sawtooth Pass.

Dinner at an awesome outdoor restaurant.

Dinner today was a great improvement over a camp dinner years ago.

The Foxglove Cabin at Silver City.

Reading about the history of Mineral King.

Coffee in the serenity of Silver City soothes the soul.

We bid Mineral King Valley, farewell.