~ Green Valley Road ~

"Not all who wander are lost.”—J. R. Tolkien

"Keep close to Nature's heart... and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain
or spend a week in the woods." —JOHN MUIR

The sweeping views along the Green Valley Road stop me in my tracks. It is calm and peaceful. Somewhere below is the Cabrillo Highway, and I’ll be there soon enough. Moments like this anchor me to better understand myself and my relationship with nature. I stop, reflect, and appreciate the scene before me.

Priceless. 

There is a warm breeze, and a tad on the hot side as I descend down the mountain towards Cambria, CA. The temperature gauge on my 2019 Indian Springfield confirms what I feel—100 degrees! Normally, the temperature is in the 60’s on the cool side.

Oak trees grace the rolling hills.

The park ranger at the San Simeon State Park warmly greets me as I pull off my helmet. She immediately comments, “Today is a warm one. I see you have reserved a campsite for two nights at Washburn.”

I have camped here many times before because it’s quiet, and you can hear the soothing ocean waves in the distance. There are several hiking trails that offer pristine views of the rolling valleys and hills. 

I stop by the Campground Host to buy a bundle of firewood. He said that he rides a H-D as he fondly looks over my Indian. “How far on a tank of gas?” was his first of many questions. I love these seemingly small interactions, but that’s what bikers instinctively do. “220-250 miles,” I reply. I sense that he would rather be riding his Harley than selling firewood.

I rarely pack a tent, preferring to sleep on the ground, but I have one for this trip. There is a breeze as I begin to set up the tent. It’s been so long that I’ve had a tent that I am fighting with the poles. The wind picks up, and I’m losing the battle. Finally, I managed to claim victory, but it was work. 

I hoped no one saw me.

Washburn campsite.

REI Peak dinner tonight.

My 2019 Indian Springfield.

The breeze stops, and the quiet of the night takes its place. There are a billion stars glancing down at me. Coyotes howl in the distance as the fire begins to dance. Personally, these peaceful moments rejuvenate me. I search for the moon, but it is sleeping. 

The fire dances.

In the morning, I’ll ride towards Morro Bay after stopping at the best breakfast spot in town—Cambria Mimosas Steak and Seafood, where they speak friendly.

A hardy breakfast at Cambria Mimosas Steak and Seafood.

Highway 1 is my favorite. I’ll pass colorful names—Harmony, Villa Creek, San Geronimo, Estero Bluffs, Cayucos. The temperature gets abruptly warmer after leaving Cambria. The ocean waves are mesmerizing—I stop, close my eyes, and listen to the waves. In the distance, Morro Rock dominates the horizon. On this journey, the ocean is my anchor.

My first glimpse of Morro Rock along Highway 1.

Morro Bay is scenic and peaceful.

I’ll stop briefly in Morro Bay before heading to my favorite spot, Los Osos State Park, where I intend to hike the Bluff Trail.

Views from the Bluff Trail are stunning. Morro Rock can be seen in the distance.

As I connect with nature, a sense of calmness takes over—“breathe in life, exhale gratitude.”

It’s warm as I drop my Kevlar jeans and boots for more comfortable shorts and sandals. 

The Bluff Trail hugs the cliffs with the Pacific Ocean below. After a few minutes along the trail, there is a lady looking into the brush. She spotted a big buck panting heavily from the heat. I had never seen a deer on this trail, which I’ve hiked numerous times.

The Los Osos & Baywood Park Visitor Center offers a glimpse into the history of the area.

On the way back to my campsite in Cambria, I reflect on 9/11, which is the purpose of my coastal ride. A few years ago, I celebrated a motorcycle ride sponsored by the White Heart Foundation and documented my story for American Rider, Ride to the Flags—Remembering 9/11 and Honoring a Wounded Warrior.

Today, I really don’t know how to celebrate this national moment as a solo rider—25th anniversary of 9/11.

Then, I see the perfect spot along Main Street in Cambria, which is lined with American flags at the American Legion Veterans Memorial. There are no ceremonies yet, but I stop for my moment of silence to remember.

American Legion Veterans Memorial in Cambria.

 

It's an honor, American Legion.

Afterwards, it’s JBJ Roundup for the best pizza found anywhere.

Round Up Pizza and Grub.

Best pizza I have found!

Riding nearly 500 miles for these simple moments, on the 25th anniversary of 9/11, is my way to honor those who lost their lives—Never Forget.

This sunset is for all the lives lost on 9/11.

The Big Dipper is my companion tonight.

~ The Middle of Nowhere ~

"I'd rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than any city on earth" - Steve McQueen

"Honestly man, you're riding an Indian where?"

This eleven day trip, and 3,434 miles is to a place called 'nowhere' somewhere near the badlands of Texas.

An adventure for sure.

Thank you RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring and Travel for sponsoring this ride along some lonely roads from California, into Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas.  And a big thank you to Indian Motorcycle for use of their 2018 Indian Chieftain Limited motorcycle on this epic adventure into the wild west.

I picked up the motorcycle at Herwaldt Motorsports in Fresno, California; a top-notch dealer for BMW, Ducati, and Indian Motorcycle.  A family-owned business that speaks "friendly."

And to my readers, thanks for following me and putting me into the Top 100 Motorcycle Blogs on the planet.  I was the last one chosen, but then again, I have only one way to go, and that's up! 

[Note: as of 9/24/26 my blog is rated #44 by FeedSpot].

The scenery along Route 66 from California into Arizona and New Mexico stopped me every few miles to capture this iconic highway across America.

My ultimate goal is Big Bend National Park in west Texas.

Here are a few pictures with new friends that I met along the trail.  After all for me, it's the personal encounters that make the journey meaningful.  The article will be out in the months ahead, so in the meantime grab the current issue RoadRUNNER Magazine, their 100th Anniversary edition, online or at the newsstands and read about some amazing rides by some very talented writers/riders.  

[Note: My full story, In Pursuit of Wildness: Big Bend National Park was published by RoadRUNNER Magazine].

The 2018 Indian Chieftain Limited has the new Thunder Stroke 111 engine.  It was absolutely a joy to ride, and performed admirably on this long distance ride out to west Texas.  I'm spoiled.

Smooth, powerful, graceful—this machine turned eyes at every stop.

There are many ways to cross into Texas, but my path is along the backroads.  I'll camp whenever I can and sleep under those wide open Texas stars near and in Big Bend National Park.  The night sky is brilliant.  My finger crosses the entire universe in one easy motion.  The stark night darkness is something I've not experienced since wide open places in Montana.  

It is dark. Quiet. Peaceful. Wild. I feel alive.  It is an honor to be here.

Matt, of Herwaldt Motorsports, hands me the key to this 2018 Indian Chieftain Limited,
and gives me a cool t-shirt and hat. Tomorrow, I'm off to Texas.

Thumbs up.  This Indian with the Thunder Stroke 111 engine is awesome.

Pure Indian to the last detail - love it!

Chris, of Herwaldt Motorsports, fits me with this awesome Indian helmet. 
Steve appears a bit jealous that he's not going.

Denise drove me to Herwaldt Motorsports in Fresno to pick up this 2018 Indian Chieftain Limited.

Along Route 66 in Barstow, California.  I love this Muriel.

Robert and Myles Griego at the Route 66 Barstow Mother Road Museum. 
Myles is an adventure biker.

My first day was a long one, 585 miles.  This Indian is photogenic and an awesome ride.  
I sensed it too loved the adventure.

Met this biker who had 722,000 on his machine in Seligman, Arizona.

Scott Master owns Scott's Fly Shoppe in Spanish Fork, Utah.  Scott was on a 1,900 bike ride 
where we both needed gas in Springerville, Arizona.  Nice Triumph Scott!

My new friend Scott, and Robert. 
I don't know who the guy is in the background, but he's now famous.

A personal invite to fly fish with Scott in Spanish Fork, Utah.

The photo below requires a few words about this special lady that I met at Sofia's Kitchen in Socorro, New Mexico.  It seems that she married a man who was working on the Panama Canal years ago.  Her husband had a ranch near Silver City, New Mexico and rode an Indian motorcycle in the 1930's.

She was friendly and told me that she was 103 years old, adding "I'll be 104 in two months."  I gave her my business card which she read carefully.  Impressive lady.  

In Spanish, she said,  "I see you are a Griego.  There are many Griegos' here in Socorro."  I nod.  She then wishes me well on my journey, "Que se vaya bien."

The icing on the cake was when she said simply, "I like your Indian."  And words from a lady who is 103 years old!  I leave Socorro for the badlands of Texas with a smile on my face.

Calty Roos and her son Omar.

My good friend Fred Dokie of 50 years puts me up for the night in El Paso, Texas.  
I think it's fair to say that he's an avid hunter, fisherman, and Raider's fan.

Jamie who rides a Harley Davison welcomes me at
Chios Basin Campground in Big Bend National Park, Texas.

Shirley Joiner who I met at Panther Junction in Big Bend National Park
provided me with the picture (below) of her dad, Charles Louis Kirby.

Charles Louis Kirby (1914-2005)

With the help of RoadRUNNER Magazine, they determined that he rode an Indian Scout, mid to late 1920's.  Shirley later says, "Thanks RoadRUNNER!"

These awesome guys at Indian Motorcycle of El Paso, Texas changed my oil
and gave me one gallon of free gas, adding:
"Man, you arrived on fumes."  Thanks, Indian guys for watching my six.

New friends Sarah and Doug Greer in Lordsburg, New Mexico.  They are riding their bikes from
Glasgow, Kentucky to California visiting National Parks along the way. 



Doug rides a Honda CB 500X and Sarah rides a Ducati Scrambler; real adventures in my book.

Doug and Robert in front of his bike.  Sarah has her own bike.

Doug, Sarah, and Robert.  Bikers ready to hit the road west.

Retired "sign man" in Ash Fork, Arizona who spotted my Indian
from above, came down for a closer look.

Highwire worker who sees everything below.

My new friend, Danny Kamphaus and Robert at Davis Mountain State Park campground in Texas.  
Danny is traveling from Kansas City out to California.
 Likely well over 5,000 miles.

Me, my Indian, and Williams, Arizona the "Gateway to the Grand Canyon."

Sarah, Denise, and Doug in Three Rivers, California.  They went to Joshua Tree and Death Valley National Parks on their journey from Kentucky. 
And now, they are heading into Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.  

They will go home with well over 6,200 miles.  Impressive!

Danny Kamphaus, from Kansas City, joins me for lunch in Three Rivers, California.  
He travels light and extensively on his Harley Davidson.

I loved this adventure out to a place called 'Nowhere.'  Steve McQueen would be proud.  

Big Bend National Park in west Texas is wild, scenic, and a destination worth pursuing.  

This trip into Texas on this Indian motorcycle was an awesome adventure.  When I returned home, I was asked: "What was your favorite moment on that trip?"

Thinking.  I responded. "It was this picture above without another person in sight for 50 miles, and feeling like I found, "The Middle of Nowhere."