~ In Pursuit of Wildness: Joshua Tree National Park ~

The article "In Pursuit of Wildness: Joshua Tree National Park" by Robert Griego was originally published on the "RoadRUNNER Touring & Travel" magazine website on 03/09/2017.

“… Lord, I’ve never lived where churches grow …” —Johnny Cash

Joshua Tree National Monument is a special place in the desert. I say that because I’ve walked along some of its lonely trails, camped there, scrambled over the huge boulders, looked up at the night sky, and served as acting superintendent when working for the National Park Service. I love walking in the desert, seeing the bighorn sheep, and riding my motorcycle through the park, all while feeling solitude. In 1994, under the California Desert Protection Act, this monument became a U.S. National Park.

It is an easy ride from most places in Southern California, and my brother Gilbert and I have made several trips here together. We like the Belle and White Tank campgrounds, as fewer people use them, but you will need to bring water. We buy our firewood in Twentynine Palms and get water at the Oasis Visitor Center. Tonight, the moon is out and we take a quiet walk in the desert from our secluded campsite. The rocks still radiate heat from the desert sun. Gilbert is a bit nervous about walking in the dark, even with the moonlight, but we soon lay on a smooth boulder and look up at the night sky. Amazing. Perfect. Wild. The ambers from our campfire light up the dark sky and our radio picks up a nice country western station.

This is a good time to tell him a Johnny Cash story.

“Gilbert, when I was in charge here, our maintenance foreman came into my office and said ‘Guess who I just saw?’ I glanced up and asked him ‘who?’ ‘JOHNNY CASH!’ he said. Looking him straight in the eye, I asked, ‘How? When? Where?'”

It seems that Johnny Cash was traveling through the park in a big Cadillac that got stuck in the sand off the road. “When I drove up to see if the driver needed help,” the foreman continued, “the rear window rolled down and the person inside said, ‘Hello, I’m Johnny Cash and we could sure use a tow to get us out of the sand.'” “The next time Johnny Cash is around, you be sure to call me first,'” I said in my most authoritative voice.

He is my favorite singer and I love his songs, poetry, and music. After the foreman left, I began to wonder, why was Johnny Cash here? I know that he gained inspiration from people and his environment. Perhaps this desert park was something that helped him with a song. Perhaps he needed to breathe the fresh air or look up at the bright night sky or maybe just touch these massive big boulders. Maybe he was doing exactly what we were doing … seeking solitude in the desert.

Our bikes cruise easily through the park and it is one of the most relaxing rides; the curves flow naturally. On one of my trips to La Joya, NM, I heard on my transistor radio some disturbing news as the announcer spoke in a sorrowful tone. “Breaking news—Johnny Cash has died at age 71.”

It is one of those moments in life when you know exactly where you were and what you were doing. His music, his poetry, his words of wisdom began playing over and over in my head.

There is one song that he sings about God and nature, and it continues to speak to me on my adventures along the trail.

… Lord, I’ve never lived where churches grow 
I loved creation better as it stood 
That day you finished it so long ago 
And looked upon your work and called it good 
I know that others find you in the light 
That sifted down through tinted window panes 
And yet I seem to feel you near tonight 
In this dim, quiet starlight on the plains …

Planning a Visit 
Joshua Tree National Park spans nearly 800,000 acres across delicate, hardy, varied terrain. The Colorado and Mojave Deserts come together here, and the higher and wetter Mojave is where you’ll find the Joshua tree. There are nine campgrounds offering about 500 developed campsites, with restaurants and grocery stores available in nearby communities. Keep a park map handy and drive slowly to protect wildlife. In the summer, expect intense sunlight, high heat, and low humidity. Drink plenty of water and don’t forget to eat!
To Do 
Day hiking, Ranger-led activities, visitor centers and museums, geology motor tours, stargazing, picnicking, rock climbing and bouldering, camping, birding, and wildflower viewing.
Hours 
Open 24/7/365, weather permitting. Highest visitation is in fall and during spring wildflower season in March and April. It is very common for campgrounds to fill on weekends. Arriving in the middle of the week will improve your chances of a campsite.
Cost 
$10 motorcycle; $10 individual; $20 vehicle. All passes valid up to seven days for Joshua Tree National Park. Annual passes $30. For more information or to purchase a pass, visit www.nps.gov/jotr.

Text and Photography: Robert Griego

~ In Pursuit of Wildness: Death Valley National Park ~

After retiring from the National Park Service following a 36-year career—one that took me to many of our nation’s crown jewels, including Yellowstone, Rocky Mountain, Mount Rainier, Joshua Tree, Pinnacles, Bighorn Canyon, and Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks—I set out in search of a new kind of adventure: one found on two wheels.

Traveling light, camping along the way, and taking the backroads whenever possible, I chased wildness across Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, Montana, Idaho, Oregon, Washington, and California.

This is one of those journeys: In Pursuit of Wildness: Death Valley National Park.

Denise Griego in a sea of wildflowers.

"Death Valley National Park is the hottest, driest, and lowest national park in America.

It's a summer day and I'm filling up my motorcycle gas tank in Baker, CA, when I asked the gas station attendant how hot it is. I'm a bit surprised when he points upwards and says, "The thermometer reads 112 degrees. It's 134 feet high, the tallest thermometer in the world." After a dramatic pause, he added, "Death Valley National Park is just that way, and it's likely to be hotter there, but so worthwhile..."

"Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt." 

- JOHN MUIR

Wildflowers lined the highway.

Wildflower touch the White Mountains.

~ The Middle of Nowhere ~

"I'd rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than any city on earth" - Steve McQueen

"Honestly man, you're riding an Indian where?"

This eleven day trip, and 3,434 miles is to a place called 'nowhere' somewhere near the badlands of Texas.

An adventure for sure.

Thank you RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring and Travel for sponsoring this ride along some lonely roads from California, into Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas.  And a big thank you to Indian Motorcycle for use of their 2018 Indian Chieftain Limited motorcycle on this epic adventure into the wild west.

I picked up the motorcycle at Herwaldt Motorsports in Fresno, California; a top-notch dealer for BMW, Ducati, and Indian Motorcycle.  A family-owned business that speaks "friendly."

And to my readers, thanks for following me and putting me into the Top 100 Motorcycle Blogs on the planet.  I was the last one chosen, but then again, I have only one way to go, and that's up! 

[Note: as of 9/24/26 my blog is rated #44 by FeedSpot].

The scenery along Route 66 from California into Arizona and New Mexico stopped me every few miles to capture this iconic highway across America.

My ultimate goal is Big Bend National Park in west Texas.

Here are a few pictures with new friends that I met along the trail.  After all for me, it's the personal encounters that make the journey meaningful.  The article will be out in the months ahead, so in the meantime grab the current issue RoadRUNNER Magazine, their 100th Anniversary edition, online or at the newsstands and read about some amazing rides by some very talented writers/riders.  

[Note: My full story, In Pursuit of Wildness: Big Bend National Park was published by RoadRUNNER Magazine].

The 2018 Indian Chieftain Limited has the new Thunder Stroke 111 engine.  It was absolutely a joy to ride, and performed admirably on this long distance ride out to west Texas.  I'm spoiled.

Smooth, powerful, graceful—this machine turned eyes at every stop.

There are many ways to cross into Texas, but my path is along the backroads.  I'll camp whenever I can and sleep under those wide open Texas stars near and in Big Bend National Park.  The night sky is brilliant.  My finger crosses the entire universe in one easy motion.  The stark night darkness is something I've not experienced since wide open places in Montana.  

It is dark. Quiet. Peaceful. Wild. I feel alive.  It is an honor to be here.

Matt, of Herwaldt Motorsports, hands me the key to this 2018 Indian Chieftain Limited,
and gives me a cool t-shirt and hat. Tomorrow, I'm off to Texas.

Thumbs up.  This Indian with the Thunder Stroke 111 engine is awesome.

Pure Indian to the last detail - love it!

Chris, of Herwaldt Motorsports, fits me with this awesome Indian helmet. 
Steve appears a bit jealous that he's not going.

Denise drove me to Herwaldt Motorsports in Fresno to pick up this 2018 Indian Chieftain Limited.

Along Route 66 in Barstow, California.  I love this Muriel.

Robert and Myles Griego at the Route 66 Barstow Mother Road Museum. 
Myles is an adventure biker.

My first day was a long one, 585 miles.  This Indian is photogenic and an awesome ride.  
I sensed it too loved the adventure.

Met this biker who had 722,000 on his machine in Seligman, Arizona.

Scott Master owns Scott's Fly Shoppe in Spanish Fork, Utah.  Scott was on a 1,900 bike ride 
where we both needed gas in Springerville, Arizona.  Nice Triumph Scott!

My new friend Scott, and Robert. 
I don't know who the guy is in the background, but he's now famous.

A personal invite to fly fish with Scott in Spanish Fork, Utah.

The photo below requires a few words about this special lady that I met at Sofia's Kitchen in Socorro, New Mexico.  It seems that she married a man who was working on the Panama Canal years ago.  Her husband had a ranch near Silver City, New Mexico and rode an Indian motorcycle in the 1930's.

She was friendly and told me that she was 103 years old, adding "I'll be 104 in two months."  I gave her my business card which she read carefully.  Impressive lady.  

In Spanish, she said,  "I see you are a Griego.  There are many Griegos' here in Socorro."  I nod.  She then wishes me well on my journey, "Que se vaya bien."

The icing on the cake was when she said simply, "I like your Indian."  And words from a lady who is 103 years old!  I leave Socorro for the badlands of Texas with a smile on my face.

Calty Roos and her son Omar.

My good friend Fred Dokie of 50 years puts me up for the night in El Paso, Texas.  
I think it's fair to say that he's an avid hunter, fisherman, and Raider's fan.

Jamie who rides a Harley Davison welcomes me at
Chios Basin Campground in Big Bend National Park, Texas.

Shirley Joiner who I met at Panther Junction in Big Bend National Park
provided me with the picture (below) of her dad, Charles Louis Kirby.

Charles Louis Kirby (1914-2005)

With the help of RoadRUNNER Magazine, they determined that he rode an Indian Scout, mid to late 1920's.  Shirley later says, "Thanks RoadRUNNER!"

These awesome guys at Indian Motorcycle of El Paso, Texas changed my oil
and gave me one gallon of free gas, adding:
"Man, you arrived on fumes."  Thanks, Indian guys for watching my six.

New friends Sarah and Doug Greer in Lordsburg, New Mexico.  They are riding their bikes from
Glasgow, Kentucky to California visiting National Parks along the way. 



Doug rides a Honda CB 500X and Sarah rides a Ducati Scrambler; real adventures in my book.

Doug and Robert in front of his bike.  Sarah has her own bike.

Doug, Sarah, and Robert.  Bikers ready to hit the road west.

Retired "sign man" in Ash Fork, Arizona who spotted my Indian
from above, came down for a closer look.

Highwire worker who sees everything below.

My new friend, Danny Kamphaus and Robert at Davis Mountain State Park campground in Texas.  
Danny is traveling from Kansas City out to California.
 Likely well over 5,000 miles.

Me, my Indian, and Williams, Arizona the "Gateway to the Grand Canyon."

Sarah, Denise, and Doug in Three Rivers, California.  They went to Joshua Tree and Death Valley National Parks on their journey from Kentucky. 
And now, they are heading into Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.  

They will go home with well over 6,200 miles.  Impressive!

Danny Kamphaus, from Kansas City, joins me for lunch in Three Rivers, California.  
He travels light and extensively on his Harley Davidson.

I loved this adventure out to a place called 'Nowhere.'  Steve McQueen would be proud.  

Big Bend National Park in west Texas is wild, scenic, and a destination worth pursuing.  

This trip into Texas on this Indian motorcycle was an awesome adventure.  When I returned home, I was asked: "What was your favorite moment on that trip?"

Thinking.  I responded. "It was this picture above without another person in sight for 50 miles, and feeling like I found, "The Middle of Nowhere."

~ In Pursuit of Wildness: The Carrizo Plain National Monument ~

After retiring from the National Park Service following a 36-year career—one that took me to many of our nation’s crown jewels, including Yellowstone, Rocky Mountain, Mount Rainier, Joshua Tree, Pinnacles, Bighorn Canyon, and Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks—I set out in search of a new kind of adventure: one found on two wheels.

Traveling light, camping along the way, and taking the backroads whenever possible, I chased wildness across Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, Montana, Idaho, Oregon, Washington, and California.

This is one of those journeys: In Pursuit of Wildness: The Carrizo Plain National Monument.

~ World Champion Team Packers ~

The Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks team win the World Champion Team Packers at the 2018 Bishop Mule Days! 

Congratulations Nick Knutson, Woody White, Lanadawn Nusz, and Randolph Hudson!

World Champion Packers.  Photo by Cinnamon Gullery

I normally do not devote an entire post to one picture but this is worth it.  Holy cow!

~ Shadows over La Joya, New Mexico ~

This Memorial Day was spent attending the annual Bishop Mule Days; something I've done for years supporting the packers from Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.

But before I get to all the cowboys, cowgirls, horses, and mules, I wanted to remember and honor my uncle Valentin Moya on this Memorial Day.

World War II impacted the Moya and Griego families of La Joya dearly. 

Our mother’s youngest brother, Valentin Moya was born on July 8, 1922 in La Joya, New Mexico and died on July 18, 1943.  He joined the Army as a young man, and likely lied about his age in order to be accepted.  He was part of the 43^rd Infantry Division which, in June and July 1943, was in the South Pacific area where they had just landed on Rendova and New Georgia Islands.  The objective here was to take the Munda Airfield occupied by the Japanese.  It was captured by the US Army forces after 12 continuous days of fierce fighting and fell on August 5, 1943. 

The official Army records factually tell us that  “…at about 0125, 18 July 1943, the US Navy LST-342 (Tank Landing Ship) was en-route from Guadalcanal for Rendova Island (to capture Munda Airbase) and was torpedoed without warning by the Japanese submarine RO-106.  The stern portion of the LST-342 was blown off by the torpedo explosion and sank almost immediately.  The actual location was south-east of New Georgia, Solomon Islands in position 09º03'S, 158º11'E (about 50 miles southeastwardly from Rendova).  [Your uncle] Valentin Moya and 31 other soldiers died in this attack.  There were only three (3) survivors…” 

Our mother loved Valentin deeply, and was often sad because she did not know Valentin’s final resting place.  This simple, little fact eluded her for nearly 65 years. We now know that Valentin, along with 36,285 soldiers missing in action, is honored on the “Tablets of the Missing” at the Manila American Cemetery and Memorial in the Philippines.

Robert Griego made a video to honor our uncle Valentin Moya and dedicated it to Nancy (Moya) Griego, as her final closure to this chapter in her brother’s life.

_______________________________________________________

On this Memorial Day, there is another person I'd like to highlight - my good friend, Jim Harvey who is 82 years young today.  In the day, he was the number one packer at the annual Mule Days competitions; a real cowboy.  We rode many miles together in the backcountry of Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.  He taught me everything I know about horses and mules.

Jim Harvey at the Bishop Mule Days.  82 years old today

Jim Harvey and Bob Griego

Jim handles security at an important gate at the Bishop Mule Days

Here are some pictures from this years Bishop Mule Days:

These cowboys are from Tombstone, Arizona and aim to keep the peace

NPS packers

The NPS brass

My good friend, Nick Knutson - top hand of the SEKI packers

Nick Knutson getting ready for his rodeo

I think I may have ridden this horse years ago

Memorial Day draws lots of people, so the Lone Pine Campground was full, except for one spot which I grabbed.  Honestly, I prefer the wide open spaces to the hustle and bustle of a packed campground.  So with those thoughts, I gave up site #10 and headed for Horseshoe Meadow where I had camped years ago with my good friend, Scott Ruesch.   

The elevation gain is substantial and the snow on the ground persuaded me to return to lower elevations.  And that's when I spotted an isolated dirt road where my adventure began.

My bike fully loaded weighs about 1,000 pounds.  A fully loaded bike that hits sand on a narrow dirt road often loses.  Before I knew it, my bike went down at only 1-2 miles per hour.  It took all of my strength to lift it back up and then it only got worse.

You see, I tried to turn around and my rear wheel sank deep into the sand.  I had left the Lone Pine Campground because there were too many people and now I was alone.  Alone and stuck.  In moments like this, it is best to relax, take deep breaths, and to accept consequences.  Nobody to blame but me.  I was stuck, but stuck in one of the most beautiful spots on earth.

That evening I dug out as much dirt and shrubs from under my bike and set up camp, knowing that this was going to be home for tonight.

This lonely dirt road was fine until I hit sand

My rear wheel was buried up to my saddle bags.  I dug out as much dirt as possible for my big push in the morning

Stuck in the sand but what a view tonight

My million dollar view looking towards Mount Whitney

My Yamaha Road Star is a work horse ~ It has never let me down