Africa 4 ~ Sunrises, Sunsets, Wildlife ~

"Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better." Albert Einstein

Moments before she began to stalk two Impalas.
Khulu Bush Camp, Zimbabwe.

Never in a million years did I think I would return to Africa.

In 2018, after an amazing wildlife adventure called The Best of Botswana, I said farewell to Keith Chisnall, our Road Scholar guide. It was our daughter, Lori’s, first trip to Africa and her 40th birthday wish.

“I don’t think I’ll ever be back to Africa,” I said emotionally to Chris, on the last day at Leroo La Tau Camp near Nxai Pan National Park along the Boteti River in the heart of Botswana. His response, in his deep South African accent, caught me off guard—“never say never, Bob.”

At the time, I thought he was being polite.

I was wrong.

Keith Chisnall and Bob Griego.
Leroo La Tau Camp, Botswana 2018. Photo by Denise Griego.

Africa again was directly in front of me—I could see it, I could smell it, and I could touch it. Memories flood my mind.

In 1975, as naïve Peace Corps/United Nations volunteers, Denise and I arrived in Gaborone, Botswana. Our son, Keith, was 1 1/2 years old, and at the time we were in our mid-20s. We wrapped our arms around Africa, cell phones didn’t exist at that time, and we relied on letters and telegrams.

Bob, Keith, and Denise Griego—1975.
Botswana's wild bush was in our backyard. 

It was scary and exciting at the same time. We would embrace Botswana and the surrounding African countries, and this 50-year love affair with Africa began.

I’m thinking about those early years on the African continent as our jumbo jet lands at Johannesburg International Airport after a 15-hour flight from Newark Liberty International Airport.

We are on another Road Scholar adventure, and Mark, our tour leader, warmly greets us. There are 15 strangers in our group, but that would soon change.

I vividly recall Mark’s opening comments to the group. “Please tell me what you expect on this tour.”  

I patiently waited for my turn. I had been here many times, yet I was nervous. It was my turn.

“I hope to see sunrises, sunsets, and wildlife.”

All three would be fulfilled, many times over, across South Africa, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, and Zambia. After all, the Road Scholar tour was called "African Safari: A Closeup on Wildlife." Road Scholar, celebrating their 50th anniversary, made our trip even more gratifying.

Elephants roam between Botswana, Zimbabwe, Namibia, and Zambia.

Keith and our grandson, Kai, have heard my stories about Africa, so I’m eager to see the magic unfold through their eyes.

I’m particularly interested in Keith’s reaction. He has seen our 35mm slides, but this is live. The magic begins—I must be patient.

Game drives were always an adventure.

 

Burchell's zebras with their unique stripes graze cautiously.

Giraffes may seem clumsy, but in fact are quite agile.

ZIMBABWE: HWANGE NATIONAL PARK

Khulu Bush Camp is perfectly situated next to Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe. Our early morning game drives across the savanna set the tone for wild Africa.

I love exploring, not knowing what might be ahead. 

Our guides search for tracks left in the sand during the night or the slightest movement in the bush. My camera is ready and I’m not disappointed. 

Our guides are expert animal trackers.

This Park Ranger carefully monitors game drives into Hwange National Park.

Evening game drives were a favorite.

Denise, Keith, Bob Griego.
Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe.

We opted for a morning game hike with Shamu, an expert guide.
His biggest concern wasn't lions but a lone Cape Buffalo.

Mayeso, our expert guide who took us to see his village.

Khulu Bush Camp was home for a few days.

Bob, Kai, and Keith Griego.
Our last sunset near Khulu Bush Camp. Photo by Denise Griego

Bob, Kai, Denise, and Keith Griego.
Our farewell campfire near Khulu Bush Camp.

Our Road Scholar group, including Guides, Shamu and Mayeso.
Photo by Mark Geraghty.

Bob Griego, Mark Geraghty, Denise Griego.
The Lookout Cafe overlooking the Victoria Falls Bridge. Mark made our tour exceptional.

Kirk Quistorff, on this tour, was inspirational at 86 years young.

MOSI-OA-TUNYA: THE SMOKE THAT THUNDERS 

On the Zimbabwe horizon, the towering mist can be seen. I’ve never seen this wonder from the sky—anticipation!

Victoria Falls as seen in the distance.

Mosi-Oa-Tunya: The Smoke that Thunders.

"Dr. Livingstone, I presume?"

Chris Worden, author of The Story of Dr Livingstone, eloquently describes on page 11 this scene: “

He [Livingstone] woke up on November 16th, 1855, and downstream he could see a great white cloud, which he thought it was a huge bush fire…But the Tonga fishermen he was staying with; told him that cloud was not a bushfire; it was ‘Mosi-Oa-Tunya’; ‘The smoke that thunders’, which is the local word for this great waterfall.”

Chris Worden and Kai Griego.

As I sat comfortably in an airplane, Livingstone explored the uncharted regions of Zimbabwe and Zambia on foot. We were fortunate to have Chris Worden present the remarkable history of Dr. Livingstone.

On the ground, the heavy mist swirled around us as rainbows peeked over the falls. The force of millions of gallons of water crashing down was mesmerizing. 

Water throughout Africa means life, especially across Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, and Zambia, where we are today.

I’m soaked. 

The words of our guide caught me off guard: “Why are you not wearing a raincoat?” 

“I wanted to be connected to the falls,” I replied.  

He paused, eyes squinting from the mist.

“Our chief says the same, you must feel the falls to be alive.”

Drenched, I thought about his words and how sacred the falls are to their people—I was grateful to be alive!

In a helicopter, the views of Victoria Falls must be incredible. 

While we remained on land, Keith and Kai experienced Victoria Falls close-up from the air. When they returned from their helicopter adventure, priceless expressions were on their faces.

Victoria Falls.
Photo by Keith Griego.

In 1975, our first trip to Victoria Falls was from Kasane, Botswana on a Honda 250cc motorcycle. We followed a dirt road towards something that we couldn’t imagine—Mosi-Oa-Tunya.

However, our stay was cut short after hearing rifle fire across Victoria Falls between Zambia and Zimbabwe. I snapped a few pictures, but we didn’t see the results of our 35mm pictures for months later in the USA. Victoria Falls was impressive in those fleeting moments as we ducked for cover. On the way back to Kasane, we narrowly escaped a charging bull elephant. Those are my vivid memories as I gaze upon Victoria Falls.

Soaking wet, the double rainbow before me is healing.

Denise and Bob Griego felt alive in the arms of  Mosi-Oa-Tunya.

Bob and Denise Griego. The view was perfect.
Photo by Linda Griffin.

Kai Griego sees Victoria Falls for the first time.

Soaking wet, Keith and Kai Griego peer into Victoria Falls.

Victoria Falls is peaceful today, but in 1975, Denise and I  heard gunshots.

ROSE OF CHARITY ORPHANAGE

It is always humbling to see children with so little express such happiness for simple gifts that our group brought to them at Schiffner Elementary, a safe place for orphans and vulnerable children. But before accepting gifts, they sang us a song.

I may have created a headache for the teachers when I began handing out motorcycle stickers, which they loved. The expressions on their faces were priceless. One boy raising his hand said, “I want two motorbikes!”

Sometimes, when you have little, a sticker can make a child smile.
Thanks, RoadRUNNER Magazine!

VICTORIA FALLS WILDLIFE TRUST

It warms my heart to see such organizations promoting conservation and education in Rescue and Rehabilitation, Wildlife Research, Wildlife Disease and Forensics, and Community Outreach. Their mission encompasses over 520,000 square kilometers of protected land across Angola, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, and Namibia. I call them unsung wildlife heroes!

A highlight was seeing orphan elephants in a natural, wild environment.

Kai Griego sees Wildlife experts in action.

Denise Griego meets a gentle giant.

BOTSWANA: CHOBE NATIONAL PARK

I’ve been here many times before, and it never gets old. Sustainability is practiced throughout the country, and today, Botswana has done an amazing job protecting and promoting its wildlife, cultural, and natural resources.

In 1975, it was a Peace Corps vision; today it’s a reality. 

The Cape Buffalo is majestic and an enemy of the lion.
Photo by Denise Griego.

The Chobe River at sunrise was mesmerizing.

This mother baboon with her baby was precious.

The landscape was teeming with diversity.

The birds along the Chobe River were everywhere.

The people always shine.  

I found them to be helpful, courteous, hard working, kind, proud, and colorful people. It is gratifying that these qualities have not changed since 1975.

People struggle daily, but how they move forward is admirable.

Good hearts, proud people.

Beautiful, colorful fabrics.

The open Maramba Market in Livingstone.

The simplest kind of communication is often a touch.

Railroad tracks are a dependable road.

Kai, Denise, and Keith Griego on the Chobe River between Namibia and Botswana.

Keith and Denise Griego.
A journey between son and mother across time.

Bob and Denise Griego
Chobe Savanna Lodge.

Denise and Bob Griego.
Tonight, the moon was on one side, the setting sun was on the other, with us in between.

Good night, Africa.

NAMIBIA: CHOBE SAVANNA LODGE

I love seeing the sunrises, sunsets, and wildlife along the Chobe River. 

To me, God’s display of Africa’s creatures was in perfect harmony. 

The scenes before me were hypnotic!

I didn’t want to leave. Will I ever return to Africa? ‘Never say never.’

I whispered my mantra privately with each sunrise and sunset—breathe in life, exhale gratitude.

As our African adventure comes to an end, I’m reminded of this Peace Corps saying that has been with me for the last fifty years.

It has always pushed me forward.

I really don't want to say goodbye.
The sunlight glittering across the water is waiting.

~~~    

“Do people tell you, you’re over the hill?

What if you were?

Over the hill, over a stream and over an ocean.

To another continent.

Thousands of miles from your own.

Where the progress of improving the lives of others improves your own.

What if you’re over the hill?

What’s over the hill anyway?”

~~~

    

Every moment in Africa was precious.

"Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better." Albert Einstein.