~ In Pursuit of Wildness: North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park ~

The article "In Pursuit of Wildness: North Rim Grand Canyon National Park" by Robert Griego was originally published on the "RoadRUNNER Touring & Travel" magazine website on 12/11/2020.

The North Rim of the Grand Canyon in Arizona has been on my bucket list due to its grand vistas. Still, in all honesty, I never would have come this far if a close friend, who once lived at Grand Canyon National Park and hiked most of it, hadn't recommended the destination.

“The South Rim is beautiful, but the North Rim is special,” he said. He told me there are fewer people and the views are breathtaking. Dispersed camping in the Kaibab National Forest is available outside of the park, and on a bike it will be a nice ride. 

And with that, I was hooked. The North Rim sounds like a perfect destination. Now, I need to convince my brother, Gilbert, that this will be a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

“How many miles from California?” is his first question.

“Well, I’m not too sure, but maybe about 2,500 miles round-trip.”

He continues: “Have you been there before?”

“No, but my friend Scott who once lived there made the recommendation. We could camp along the way.” 

He didn’t think long, and simply replied: “OK.”

Onto the Road

There is something unique in traveling across the country on motorcycles with your likeminded brother. He rides a Harley-Davidson Street Glide, while my mount is a Yamaha Road Star. Over the years, we have traveled together across 25,000 miles, visiting natural areas mostly in the West. We camp lightly on the land, always following the “leave no trace” rules. Our campsites are always in a better condition when we leave.

We head north from Flagstaff, AZ, on US 89. Since neither of us has been on this route before, we stop often to explore. The Cameron Trading Post next to the Little Colorado River catches our attention. The parking lot, full of motorcycles, is a good rest stop to look over the map. It should be a short 60 miles to Bitter Springs, from where we follow US 89A to Jacob Lake. We fuel up and buy some food before heading south on SR 67 to the North Rim. 

Gilbert spots a dirt road leading into an aspen forest, where we make camp next to an abandoned horse corral. We settle for the night in the cool high-elevation air and have a hearty dinner with popcorn for dessert. The night sky is brilliant, with a shooting star streaking across the vastness above us. The next day, we enter the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

Gilbert wants to hike some trails and we are both eager to explore some of the vistas. We remove our riding gear and slip into comfortable shorts and tennis shoes. Looking over the park map, we set off on the Bright Angel Point Trail—a short half-mile round trip—from the Grand Canyon Lodge. The pace of everything around us slows down. It is quiet. Looking down into the depths of the canyon is mesmerizing. The solitude and serenity I feel with each step exceeds my expectations.

We continue onto the Transept Trail, which is a longer four-mile round trip offering views of the Transept, a stunning side canyon. We soon realize that there are more rigorous trails that we will save for a future trip. The North Kaibab Trail interests me. It is the only maintained trail into the canyon from the North Rim and one best taken on the back of a horse or mule with a wrangler guide.

Robert and Gilbert Griego.

Reluctantly, we leave, knowing that we’ll be back for a longer stay.

“Robert, I thought you said that this ride was about 2,500 miles round trip. By the time we get home, it will be more like 1,500 miles,” my brother says.

“That’s true, but I thought we could go see Monument Valley and Goosenecks State Park in Utah on our way back,” I reply. 

With a smile on my brother’s face, we continue our adventure.

 

PLANNING A VISIT

When planning a visit to the Grand Canyon, it’s best to start by picking between the South and North Rims. The hiking distance from the south to the north is a strenuous 21 miles, while driving would take about 5 hours over 220 miles. The North Rim—more than 8,000 feet in elevation—is visited by only 10% of all Grand Canyon visitors. 

The best time to visit the North Rim is between May 15 and October 15. During the winter months, the North Rim is closed due to snow. For lodging, it is best to make reservations either for the Grand Canyon Lodge or the North Rim Campground.

TO DO

Point Imperial and Cape Royal along the North Rim Scenic Drive can be reached via winding roads with ample pullouts providing grand scenes across the canyon. Plan on taking half a day or more for these drives with some short walks along the way. 

Cape Royal is a popular destination for both sunrise and sunset. Point Imperial is the highest point on the North Rim at 8,803 feet and provides sweeping views of the Painted Desert and the eastern end of the Grand Canyon.

There are free, daily park ranger programs to learn about geology, fossils, plants, and animals, in addition to numerous park trails.

HOURS

The North Rim Visitor Center is open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. There is a hiker shuttle service from the Grand Canyon Lodge to North Kaibab Trailhead. Reserve space 24 hours in advance at the lodge front desk.

FEES

Entrance fees, good for seven days, are $30 per motorcycle, $35 per vehicle, and $20 per individual (bicyclist, hiker, or pedestrian). An annual park pass is $70. For more information, see www.nps.gov/grca.

Text and Photography by Robert Griego

~ In Pursuit of Wildness: Zion National Park ~

The article "In Pursuit of Wildness:  Zion National Park" by Robert Griego was originally published on the "RoadRUNNER Touring & Travel" magazine website on 9/17/2018.

"In wildness is the preservation of the world."  HENRY DAVID THOREAU

In Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, the two bank- and train-robbing bandits sought these red canyons as their hideout from the law. I was mesmerized by Paul Newman and Robert Redford in this modern-day Western, but honestly, the scenery captivated me more. I knew that one day I would have to visit the wild canyons of Zion National Park.

I’m relieved to see only 11 vehicles ahead of me when I arrive at the South Campground at 5 a.m., after riding 535 miles from Three Rivers, CA. It’s first come, first served here, and so I patiently wait until the campground opens at 7. In just 10 minutes, 30 more vehicles are lined up behind me. In past years when the campground was full, I have camped near Virgin on Bureau of Land Management land. There is a perfect spot there, just off Mesa Road, high on a mesa where free public land camping is available with incredible views. That’s my back-up plan.

The campground Ranger approaches, smiling. “You’ll get a site today,” she says. “After a camper leaves, you’ll be assigned your campsite.” I like this system. “Ok”, she says a short while later, “go to campsite #68.” My assigned spot is next to the Virgin River and I can’t wipe the grin off my face. There’s another campground called Watchman which is on a reservation system, and that one fills up months early. I’m tired. The desert sun near Needles, CA, drained me. I set up my hammock between two cottonwood trees and the cool breeze sways me to sleep. I think about the three things I’m going to experience: Walter’s Wiggles, the Narrows, and that mile-long tunnel.

In the morning, I’ll be hiking the Angels Landing Trail to see Walter’s Wiggles for the first time. The immense landscape slows me down considerably. The higher elevations, with each step, create panoramic views of the Zion Canyon below. It’s not easy walking, but the views are incredible. Finally, I stop at Walter’s Wiggles, the 21 short switchbacks leading from Refrigerator Canyon to Scout Lookout.

This portion of the Angels Landing Trail was designed and built by Walter Ruesch, the first Superintendent of Zion National Park and the grandfather to another one, Scott Ruesch. Scott and I worked together at Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park, and while I knew that his mom and dad were National Park Service professionals, I had never heard about his grandfather. Walter was my inspiration to travel some 600 miles from Three Rivers to see this landmark for myself. I had never met the man, but I was determined to see the marvel he created. Pictures don’t do it justice. You must walk this trail, breathing the thin air, and see the heavenly views to appreciate the rock work along this iconic walkway, named Walter’s Wiggles, an amazing feat by today’s engineering standards and incredible for 1926!

The Narrows is best described as an adventure. In waist-deep water, I’m soaking wet as I move up the Virgin River like an explorer. The red canyon walls are high and I imagine I’m a scout for the Lewis and Clark Expedition. It’s wild and I feel alive within the grandeur of this canyon.

The mile-long tunnel heading toward Fredonia is a must on a motorcycle. There are “windows” along the tunnel, displaying fantastic views of a wonderland where very little has changed since outlaws roamed the trails.

Planning a Visit
Zion National Park offers a variety of activities across several geographic regions. In 1909, it began as Mukuntuweap National Monument but was granted national park status in 1919. Billions of years ago, the Virgin River carved valleys on the sandstone in southwest Utah. Now, we can walk through the canyon of Zion National Park.

Zion means “the heavenly city” and the park’s Kolob Canyons are named for a heavenly body described as being nearest God’s throne in Mormon scripture. You won’t find any churches in the park, but there are certainly plenty of sights that inspire reverence.

TO DO
Backpacking, bicycling, birding, camping, canyoneering, climbing, hiking, horseback riding, Ranger-led activities, visitor centers, picnicking, and stargazing.

Visit nearby Pipe Springs National Monument, Cedar Breaks National Monument, Bryce Canyon National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, and Canyonlands National Park.

PLANNING A VISIT
Park your motorcycle and take the stress-free park shuttle, which is efficient and an excellent way to see the park. It can be boarded at visitor centers, campgrounds, and most lodges.

HOURS
Zion National Park is open 24 hours a day, every day of the year. Some services and facilities may close or reduce hours during parts of the year. Always carry water!

COST
Costs are $25 per motorcycle; $15 individual; and $30 a vehicle. Zion Annual passes are $50. Keep in mind that parks keep 80 percent of all fees collected; the remaining 20 percent is deposited in a special account to be used for parks where fees are not collected. These proceeds fund projects not funded by Congress. Parks are a great deal. Take advantage.

For more information or to purchase a pass, visit: www.nps.gov/zion

Text and photography: Robert Griego.